Whisky Review: Hatozaki - Small Batch Whisky

Whisky Review: 

Hatozaki - Small Batch Whisky

What It Is

I am drinking the "Hatozaki Small Batch Whisky" in this post.  This Japanese Whisky is made at the Kaikyo Distillery in Akashi City - Hyōgo, which if the box is to believed-- and why would a box lie to me?-- has been run by Yonezawa family since 1917.

The Hatozaki Lighthouse, the oldest stone lighthouse in Japan, has been a guide for sailors navigating the turbulent waters before the port of Akashi since 1620. It is a symbol of dependability, openness to the wider world, and trade which enables the exchange of goods and ideas. We chose this lighthouse, which stands so close to our distillery, as the perfect icon to represent our whisky.

Who among us hasn't been tossed by tempestuous and stormy waters in our boat of life only to need whisky to be our homing beacon-- our safe harbor? I'm just saying the imagery works and a local lighthouse is a good symbol and a solid foundation on which to build a brand.

Speaking of the brand, this review is for "The Small Batch Whisky."  There are three other line extensions available in the United States through Marussia Beverage Company.

What Went In

The "Small Batch" is made up of "100% malt whiskies," so it's not a grain whisky like Suntory's Chita Single Grain Japanese Whisky or Nikka's Coffey Grain Whisky.  However, the description doesn't say that this whisky is a single malt, which means that although it is totally composed of malt whiskies, their source doesn't have to be all from the Kaikyo Distillery, or even all from Japan. I don't find this "tricky" or a "marketing ploy," but it does dial back my expectations for what I should be willing to pay for this "Japanese Whisky."

At some point, the whiskies involved get to commingle in "imported bourbon casks, imported sherry casks and native Mizunara oak barrels." This is pretty much the holy trinity of whisky cask aging vessels, with the increasingly rare Mizunara Oak piquing my interest.  Mizunara Oak imparts an amazing cedar-like scent and a plum-ish taste to whisky. The trees must live at least 200 years before they are harvested, so we're at the mercy of 1820's planning and those people didn't know how much Japanese Whisky I was going to drink (a lot).

How It Came Out

Out of the bottle, I notice the light yellow, straw color. With no Age Statement, I wasn't expecting a dark whisky, but saying this is yellow-ish is generous. An unadulterated sip yields noticeable malt barley flavor.  I detect an inkling of the cedar-like Mizunara cask, and a hint of plum. I don't pick up on much oak or sherry notes, though. It tastes remarkably like an un-aged Irish Whisky. Sweet, tasty, and surprisingly smooth at 46% ABV. But as far as wood imparted flavors? Minimal. Seaside environments are great for aging whisky. It's like this whisky was splashed into the barrel and immediately drained-- or, the barrels have been re-used to the point of obsolescence. 

For what it is, I like it.  I think Kimio Yonezawa and the Hatozaki team are on to something.  Small batch whiskies made with the attention to detail that goes into sake? At a price point that I used to pay for Japanese whisky? With a supply to meet demand?

My only suggestion for improvement is that it seems like stronger flavors would come from longer time in the barrel. It is very possible that the mystery of "what if this whisky was aged for more time?" is unraveled in potential future tastings of Hatozaki Omakase Pure Malt (minimum 5 year-old whisky blend then rests in the cask for another eight years) or Hatozaki Hatozaki Small Batch 12 Year Old Umeshu Cask Finish (12 years in old American Oak casks, plus a li'l Umeshu polish at the end).

In conclusion, this deserves a coveted space on my whisky shelf. It's a solid example of the craftsmanship evident in Japanese whisky, while not breaking the bank. I picked up this bottle in April 2024 for less than $45 at Costco. The relatively high ABV plus the price means that I wouldn't regret putting this in a high-ball cocktail. But it's also so smooth and subtle that sipping this neat with friends (or by myself, honestly), would make this a worthwhile treat.

Kanpai!

Hatozaki Promo Video